Marquesas: NUKU HIVA guide. Pig roasts, ancient culture, & amazing temples aboard the Aranui.
Nuku Hiva has always been the most magical and mythical of the Polynesian Marquesas islands, attracting Herman Melville and Robert Louis Stevenson to its idyllic shores over a hundred years ago. Today you can still find much of the magic tucked away in its dramatic coastline, or through its misty plateau called To’ovi’i, which is covered in a pine forest, giving it much the appearance of the lower Alps in Germany rather than a paradise island of the Pacific.
Nuku Hiva’s history is rich, dating back at least 2000 years when the first people came to colonize the island. It has been a magnet for many cultures including Tahiti, Hawaii’i, the Cook Island and even New Zealand, and this melting pot has created a robust living and truly unique culture on Nuku Hiva. Dancing, woodworking, and a fantastic cuisine are all the product of having these many people bring their cultures to this largest island of the Marquesas.
One of the more controversial historic points is that Cannibalism was practiced on the island by the first inhabitants, more out of necessity then for ritual purposes. Since there is no written history but just accounts and verbal history to take in account, many have chosen not to include it in modern studies of the island and its inhabitants. True or not, the current locals of the islands are perhaps some of the most lovely and welcoming in the world, and obviously do not practice cannibalism in any form today. Rather, they have amazing feasts!
Pig roasts, or Umu, are a ceremony in Nuku Hiva, and no one does it better then Yvonnes in Nuku Hiva. Whole beasts are put in a wire cage, with breadfruit, taro and other veritable delights, covered with banana leaves, and placed under hot coals. There they are slow roasted for hours, before being unearthed, prepared, and served. Pisson cru (raw tuna with coconut milk), various raw fish, crabs, shrimp, taro, manioc, breadfruit, umara (sweet potato), several types of bananas, and tons of sauces and mashed stuff. It’s a total taste bud overload. And then there is fafaru, which you should just read about here because its a bit hard to describe:
The darling down of Taioha’e is to be relished, with it’s colonial and indigenous mix of architecture and culture blending together in an island setting. There you will find the Notre Dame Cathedral, a strong reminder of the far reaching Catholic influence even here in the middle of the Pacific ocean. This beautiful structure is covered in some of the most lovely wood carvings you have ever seen, with cartoonish poses in religious settings. Regardless of your belief or feelings about religion, it is worth a visit just for the craftsmanship.
Before Catholicism was injected into the culture, Nuku Hiva’s original inhabitants had a very strong and complex religious and cultural beliefs. Indigenous religion was strongly dualistic, postulating a living world of light ( ao ) and a world of ghosts, deities, darkness, and night (po). The presence of deities ( etua ) in this world was believed to be vital for making work efficacious and for securing life and prosperity. There was an extensive hierarchy of deities, ranging from the founding originators of the cosmos to their particular expressions in the gods of occupations and places, and there also were apotheosized shamans and chiefs, often linked with local temples ( me'ae). The aggrieved ghosts of major shamans were often propitiated to relieve famine, and many lesser figures were associated with illness and other misfortunes. Since the late nineteenth century, more than 90 percent of Marquesans have become Catholics, most of the remainder being Protestants descended from Hawaiian mission teachers. Modern Marquesan religion has not been adequately investigated, but syncretic elements appear to persist, including belief in a range of evil spirits, such as ghosts of women who have died in childbirth. Archeological sites are all over the island, and it is common to be able to find and explore Marae, which are Polynesian temples. Nuku Hiva has some of the most preserved temples in Polynesia, some next to ancient sacred trees that really impress upon you the power of this place.
Overall no trip to the Marquesas is really complete without visiting Nuku Hiva, which has intrigued visitors from around the world for centuries. Herman Melville wrote Typee there in 1846 and Robert Louis Stevenson's first landfall on his voyage on the Casco was at Hatihe'u, on the north side of the island, in 1888. Since then many an intrepid traveller has ventured across the Pacific to witness the gentle marvel that is Nuku Hiva, and I was just so happy that the Aranui was able to bring me there in comfort and style to enjoy it’s boundless beauty, and fascinating culture.
Tahiti, full sail ahead (Documentary, Discovery, History)
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Visitors to Nuku Hiva enjoy a performance by traditional Marquesan dancers.
Video by Sarah Culler aboard the National Geographic Orion in Nuku Hiva, Marquesas.
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Journey to Tahiti and French Polynesia
Travel to the enchanted land of Tahiti and French Polynesia made famous by James Michener’s, Tales of the South Pacific. Experience French Polynesian culture while sailing in a four-masted schooner to the Society and Tuamotu Islands. Explore the rich ecosystems and snorkeling in the clear turquoise lagoons with colorful fish, stingrays, and sharks. Enjoy the South Pacific sunsets of Bora Bora and discover Moorea, the inspiration for the South Pacific’s mystical Bali Hai, set to the music of the islands.
The Marquesas Islands and the Tuamotu Archipelago on board the Aranui and the Orava (Documentary)
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Take a behind the scenes peek into the lives of liner crew members and discover the pleasures of a life spent at sea.
Stop Over will take you on prodigious trips across the most marvelous oceans and rivers of the world. Travel with us as we explore not just the waters of the world, but also the mythical cruise ships, legendary liners, magnificent sailboats and fascinating traditional vessels that take us from place to place.
Board the Queen Elizabeth 2, the Royal Clipper, Le France/Le Norway, the Sun Boat II, the Classica, the Vat Phou, the Bolero, the Wind Song, the Grigoriy Mikheev icebreaker and the Silver Cloud among many others.
Travel from Southampton to New York, Gao to Mopti, Aswan to Abu Simbel, Dubai to the port of Muscate, on the famous Incense Route of the Desert Cities in the Negev.
Produced by NIGHT & DAY.
History of The Marquesas
From the Global Village Travel Guide and DVD, Islands of the South Pacific. Stock footage available from
Transcript:
The Marquesas receive few visitors.
Large airplanes can't land here and there are no hotels.
Though the early inhabitants were a warrior
culture practicing cannibalism,
Captain Cook found these islands hospitable
when he visited during his second voyage in 1774.
In 1842, when the French annexed the Marquesas
the population was estimated to have
been 60,000. By 1926 the ravages of European
diseases, tribal warfare, and a collapsing culture
had reduced the population to less than 2,500 people!
Although the population has now
grown to about 7,000 again, there is an eerie sense
on these islands that a vanished people
still haunt their former homes.
These geologically young islands have no reef and
no surrounding flatlands. Each island is sharpl y divided
by steep ridges,
formidable barriers to travel and communication.
Nuku Hiva, the largest island in the group,
has a population of 2, 400.
Aranui 5 journey to the Marquesas Islands
- Ten-minute video of a fantastic two-week journey on the Aranui 5, a modern cargo/passenger boat that sails to the six main islands of the Marquesas Islands as well as visits to the Tuamotu and Society islands.
The background music in this video is mostly from Marquesan artists.
The first song is an oldie by Rataro (who comes from Ua Po) - Teikikeuhina.
Other songs are by Takanini who come from Nuku Hiva (FB page The songs are from their CD Ata Kua - Nature. Hinenao Au, Eka Eka Nei, Kamave, A Mave, Tuhuka and I Te Ao Maama.
All Aboard the Aranui 5 - Ariving in Papeete Tahiti, boat guide, and welcome party.
This was a trip for the books ... Get Lost Magazine sent me to Tahiti to cruise with the legendary Aranui to the remote Polynesian Marquesas islands. What's so special about the Aranui is that it's half cargo ship, half luxury liner, the only boat of its kind. That's how they are able to bring tourist to these absolutely remote islands that are simply not touristed by anyone else. You get to see Polynesian life as it happens naturally, which is a rare and special treat.
Make no mistake, as a passenger you are pampered and treated to some of the best cruising in the world. 5 star accomodations, amazing cuisine, shopping, entertainment, you name it. It's a very special trip, and just watching this video makes me smile thinking of all the fantastic friends I made that quickly became family to me.
If you're interested, check out a few of the other videos I've done that highlight the ship, and the different island destinations we hit up. It was in a word... magical.
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Off to the Marquesas on the Aranui 2 - FP 1997
After a couple of days in Tahiti we boarded the freighter Aranui 2 for a 16 day trip from Papeete via the Tuamotu islands to the Marquesa islands and back.
Aranui 3 - a voyage to Marquesas Islands
A voyage from Papeete (Tahiti) to Marquesas Islands, November 2013
Entdecken Sie die magischen Marquesas-Inseln mit dem Passagierfrachtschiff Aranui 5
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POLYNESIE, Iles Marquises - Le voyage de l'Aranui.
L'ARANUI, LE CARGO DES ILES MARQUISES
Quand on parle de la Polynésie, on pense aux lagons de Bora-Bora, aux vahinés, aux essais nucléaires, à la luxuriance de la végétation, à la gentillesse des insulaires, à Gauguin, Brel, Ségalen, Moitessier... On pense moins à un bateau à priori anodin, un cargo qui ravitaille les îles Marquises, mais qui est en Polynésie une vraie légende. C'est l'Aranui, Le Grand Chemin en polynésien.
Documentary about an iconic cargo-passenger ship in Marquesas islands.
Delos Explores the Tuamotu Archipelago, Part 1- Sailing SV Delos Ep. 8
Follow SV Delos as we explore the Tuamotu Archipelago in French Polynesia by sailboat (Video 1 of 2).
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Marquesas Culture - Share & Travel with Polynesian People
Polynesian people from the Marquesas Islands. 100 % wild - remote, and authentic culture.
Read about my first sail experience in the middle of the South Pacific ocean.
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Technical information:
The video was shot on Lumix GH4 and Canon 6D,
Edited in Premiere Pro CC.
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RT 513 Episode Preview - Voyage to the Marquesas
The Raw Travel crew begins an epic journey aboard the Aranui, the famed cargo & passenger hybrid ship, to visit some of the most secluded islands in the South Pacific.
Aranui 5 Cruise Ship/Freighter Delivers freight in French Polynesia
To read the entire story about delivering freight in the Marquesas Islands of French Polynesia, go to and if you enjoyed this video, please consider subscribing to my YouTube channel.
One of the most fascinating ways to see French Polynesia is aboard the Aranui 5, a combination cruise ship and freighter that visits three of the five island groups in the French territory. In this video I focus on the freight operations, and how the Aranui 5 is a lifeline to all of the populated islands in the Marquesas.
Captain Fresh in Marquesas Islands
Captain Fresh takes us around French Polynesia to meet his family members!
We board the new custom built Aranui 5 cruiser, bus to the Art gallery and visit the cemetery in Captain Fresh's MY WORLD.
Credits
Presenter: Dazzlombard
Director: Lanita Ririnui
Thank You: Rob Thompson, The Aranui 5 Crew, Christine Allen
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WE Sail & Explore the Remote Islands of the Marquesas in French Polynesia | Episode 166
Welcome back to our adventure where we have now officially made land fall in French Polynesia after sailing over thirty days across the Pacific Ocean.
We highly enjoy our first days on land, and get right to hiking, exploring, meeting locals, and generally getting to know these new lands that we plan on calling home for the next few months... Maybe more!
Join us on our sailing adventures throughout the Pacific Ocean!
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Pitcairn on the Aranui 5
- Ten Minute video of a special voyage of the Aranui 5 from Papeete to the Tuamotu Islands, Gambier Islands, Pitcairn Island and the Austral Islands.
Aranui 5 - Marquesas-Inseln HD
Aranui 5 - mit dem Frachtschiff zu den Marquesas-Inseln, Französisch Polynesien - avec le cargo Aranui 5 aux îles Marquises, Polynésie française - with the cargo ship Aranui 5 to the Marquesas Islands, French Polynesia
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